Tahiti’s Marquesas Islands
Romance in the South Pacific
by Rita Cook

There’s a lot to remember about the Marquesas Islands! For one, there is the ship you will live on for 16 days called the Aranui 3, surrounded by travelers from around the world. However, even now the Marquesas Islands are but a fond memory as I think back on the experience at home. You can expect a multitude of memories tied together and more unforgettable in the retelling.

While the Marquesas Islands certainly have their share of annoyances, the islands also offer much more with a culture and people that are found nowhere else on the earth.

The Aranui 3 is about the adventure, the seclusion, the rarity of this group of islands uniquely set apart from the world and easily able to function without the cares or worries.

All trips will certainly have positives and negatives, but you can be sure that you will enjoy the Marquesas Islands and form your own unique ideas founded exclusively through the eyes of your own individual experiences.

The Marquesas Islands are indeed a lonely archipelago not visited by too many tourists and not as easy to get to as say, Bora Bora or Papeetee, Tahiti. While some would think inconvenience, it’s also heaven. No hawkers, tipping, begging and on Tuesday at Hakahau the children and teenagers alike will greet you with a constant "hello" or "Bon Jour."

Islands Visited

The Marquesas Islands or Henua Enata "Land of Men" are at the end of the world with only about 7,000 inhabitants in all. Some of the smaller islands are virtually untouched since the era of European discovery. Our trip on the Aranui 3 consisted of visiting the islands of Ua Pou, the most populated island with 2,000 people, Hakahetau, Hakahau, Nuku Hiva, Vaitahu, Fatu Hiva, Omoa, Puamau, Ua Huka, Atuona, home of artist Paul Gauguin and Taiohae-Taipivai, where Herman Melville spent time and wrote his book "Typee."

Tiki Sites

Since the islands of Tahiti were so remote for many years, and still are to a degree, the ancient sites are phenomenal and well worth the trip. On several of the islands you will have the chance to hike into the woods and view the Tiki sites. On Puamau there are the me'ae Iipona (ancient temple) and the Takaii, the biggest Tiki of French Polynesia. Many of these sites still carry the energy from human sacrifices and an intense power that the people in this part of the world developed and maintained.

Traveling on Cargo/Passenger Ship

You will find the experience of traveling on a passenger/cargo ship, well, different. For one, our ship had cargo as varied as a coffin (for a chief who didn't die after all), a dozen SUV’s, kerosene containers and everything in between. At each island the cargo was unloaded, it is the only means the Marquesan people have of receiving supplies from the outside world.

On board there is a swimming pool, reasonable size cabins, gym and exercise room and a lounge to read or write about your adventures.

You can pick up the ship at either Papeetee, Tahiti or on several of the Marquesan Islands that have small airports. The latter option is good if you don’t have a full 16 days to spend aboard the ship.

Helpful Advice

Take every opportunity to use the toilet, you never know when there might be another one.

Take every opportunity to use the pay phone, you never know when there might be another one and if it will work.

If you’re on shore and want to go back to the boat, take the first whale boat back. Don’t depend on the next one coming, it could take awhile leaving you stuck on shore when you are really ready to get back to your cabin.

When you ask a question the answer will probably be "yes." However, yes means yes, no or maybe depending on who you ask.

Take money out from the ship’s purser. If you go to a bank on one of the islands then you will find a service charge and a minimum transaction fee, which might be more than you intend to spend.

Beware of the tiny bugs called No Nos. They live on several of the islands and are pesky like mosquitoes only causing far more trouble. If they bite you and you scratch the wound, it will swell leaving you to look as if you have the measles.

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